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By Sarge McCoy
MY AXLE STUBS ARE
We are very active in UTV racing with
a Can-Am Maverick. Unfortunately,
the rear axles seem to break down
just after the nut time after time. Does
anybody have an idea how to resolve
this major problem? We will join the
Libya Rally in Morocco in April, and we
need to have a reliable vehicle.
Eersel, Noord Brabant
Your basic problem, Boot, is the
loose fit of the factory hub to stub axle.
Under racing conditions, the side load
is too much for the factory stub axle
and it breaks. There are two fixes that
I am aware of. The first is to install a
larger axle nut. Increase the diameter
of the nut from the stock 28mm hub
nut to a 32mm nut. And then use Red
Loc-Tite to fill the splines, locking the
axle stub to the hub, filling the “slop”
with Loc-Tite. Use only a little Loc-Tite
on the nut threads, because Loc-Tite
is a friction modifier and it affects the
final torque reading, which is 200
foot-pounds. That fix may work. The
expensive fix, which always works, is
to use a Gorilla Axle (http://gorilla-axle.
-length/gorilla-axles-stock-arctic-cat-axles.html). They use a stronger
and .10-inch-larger threaded stub.
Remember to send Sarge pics from the
race, Boot, or you will wish you had quit
racing and joined the French Foreign
SLIPPERY WHEN WET
This past summer I lubricated the
control cables on my 2009 Yamaha
Grizzly. I used a Chain and Cable
lubricant that my dealer recommended.
Everything was fine until I went up
north to ride the Hatfield-McCoy trail
in West Virginia. Everything froze up
and my throttle was sticking. Sarge, a
local shop told me my cables were filled
with grease! They told me I used the
wrong cable lubricant and I would need
to replace all my cables. Well, I didn’t,
because I suspected they were just
trying to sell me new cables and the
labor to install them. Can you help?
Private Check-In, your Florida dealer
sold you a cable lubricant that was
also a chain lubricant. In warm weather
it most likely performs okay, and
obviously when the temperature drops
the lubricant sets up to a thick, viscous
grease. A single lubricant cannot be
thin enough to lubricate a cable and
be thick enough and have EP (Extreme
Pressure) properties to lubricate a chain
at the same time. The two requirements
are diametrically (that’s my word of the
week; look it up, Boot!) opposed to
each other. There are two schools of
thought on cable lubricants. One side
preaches a thin wet lubricant, and the
other favors a dry lubricant. I favor a
two-step approach—wet then dry. A
wet lubricant, while it may lube perfectly
fine, it stays wet, and this wetness can
attract dirt up into the cable, scoring the
inner plastic liner. A dry lubricant cannot
attract dirt, but it isn’t much good at
flushing out dirt and rust that builds up
inside a cable. So, since you asked,
here is my cable regimen: requisition
a cable luber adapter designed for
aerosols. Remove the upper end of the
cable and install the luber. Connect
an aerosol can of WD- 40. Spray the
WD- 40 into the cable until the other
end of the cable runs clear. “Working”
the cable can help clean out any built-
up dirt and debris. With the cable clean,
you can then use either aerosol Dri-
Slide (available here: http://www.dri
purpose-moly-lubricant) or use their
Bike Aid with the needle adapter to
dribble the Dri-Slide down the cable.
The Dri-Slide carrier liquid is very volatile
and will evaporate quickly, leaving
behind the dry molybdenum powder
as a dry, non-sticky, non-freezing
lubricant. Boot, don’t be too hard on
your dealer, because he doesn’t have to
deal with radical temperature changes.
Although, with all the sand you have in
Florida, I don’t understand how he can
recommend a “wet” cable lubricant.
Twenty-five sit-ups, Boot, and your
dealer owes me 50! Dismissed!
I just purchased a leftover 2013 Can-
Am Outlander 800. My dealer practically
ordered me to bring the 800 back after
20 hours for its initial service because he
has to change the “break-in” fluids in it
or the warranty would be voided! Sarge,
is this nonsense or what?
Private Domino, your dealer is full of it!
Point #1: Your warranty should remain
in effect as long as the recommended
service is done according to the
schedule, and you have proof the
service was performed. It shouldn’t
matter who performs the service.
Remind him that he may be in violation
of 15 US Code Chapter 50, or more
commonly known as the “
Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975. See here:
routine-maintenance. “Tie-In” sales
of factory products, like only using
factory-branded oil, is a violation with
monetary punishment of up to $10,000
per violation. Point #2: Also remind him
that the “factory recommended time”
to the first service is at 10 hours or 300
kilometers (200 miles)—not 20 hours.
Or, Boot, just do the work yourself and
learn about what makes your Can-Am
tick. Purchase a service manual, some
engine oil, some rear-end oil and learn
by doing it yourself! Change the oil
and filter and the rear-end fluid. The
valve adjustment can usually wait until
around the 50-hour mark. If your dealer
gives you any trouble, contact Can-Am
directly at (888) 272-9222. Remember,
Boot, no one orders you to do anything,
except your friendly DI! Laugh, Boot!