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By Sarge McCoy
I have a 2010 Kawasaki Teryx with
1000 miles on it. After riding for a day
(about 30–40 miles), I check the oil,
and it is usually down by a 1⁄ 2 quart.
Last week after stopping on the trail,
we started off and I punched it. I went
about 50 feet, and the blue smoke
poured out so bad that everyone
stopped because they thought I was
on fire. I shut it off and let the smoke
clear the area. When I restarted it, the
blue smoke poured out for about two
minutes, and I could see oil spots on
the ground from the exhaust. I have
good compression, and the engine
has never been abused. My dealer has
suggested that I run a lower oil level
as the only solution. Sarge, that just
doesn’t sound right! There must be a
way to prevent this from happening.
Saratoga Springs, New York
Private Farm Girl, what you describe
is a common problem with the V-twins
if the oil is overfilled or even topped up
to the top mark on the dipstick. These
engines push oil through the breather
tubes when run hard, and oil gets into
the air cleaner, then it is sucked into the
motor where it is ingested and burned.
Kawasaki made an attempt to cure this
problem with a catch can on the side
of the plenum, but it doesn’t catch all
the oil as you have seen. I personally
don’t like running the crankcase oil
low to stop this oil-burning issue.
Hunterworks ( www.hunterworks.com/
inc/sdetail/ 36028 or  771-0070)
makes a kit that
cut down on
Their Stop kit will
all the oil that
into the airbox
and channel it
back into the
hour of your
time and you
will not be killing
the Stop kit
installed, you can
run your oil level
where it should
be. It is safer
that way, Boot! Two miles double time,
Hello, my dad has a John Deere
Gator 825i. We would like to add power
steering, and I have a few questions I
was hoping you could help me with.
There are a lot of systems available; do
you recommend any? Would I be able
to install it myself, or does it require
dealer installation? We would like a
quality product at a reasonable price.
Any info you could send me would very
much be appreciated. Thank you.
Private Wee-One, the recruits that
have purchased the Wicked Bilt electric
power-steering unit have been pleased
with their purchase. Wicked Bilt is a
division of Maval Manufacturing Inc.
(1555 Enterprise Parkway, Twinsburg,
OH 44087;  248-9111; or www.
wickedbilt.com/home.html) The last
unit I put on, Boot, took an afternoon.
The hardest part was getting the
I HAVE A SCREW LOOSE
steering wheel off. If you don’t have
the factory steering-wheel puller, then
you will definitely need to requisition
one from one of the stores selling
China tools. You know the one I
mean, Boot, the one whose freight
is by the harbor. There is a really
good write-up of the assembly and
operation by an owner here: www.
Power- Steering&highlight=kmjd44. A
grand is a lot for power steering, Boot,
but John Deere doesn’t seem to want
to sell a retrofit power-steering kit to
existing owners, so this route is your
only option. You know, Boot, the more
I think about it, a little PT can give you
“Armstrong power steering” for free!
Laugh, Boot! Fifty pushups daily for two
weeks and you won’t be sniveling about
power steering anymore! Dismissed!
I own a 1981 Honda Big Red three-
wheeler. Recently I had to remove the
carburetor to clean rust out of it. My
tank is beginning to rust. Anyway, that
is when I noticed that one of the two
screws holding the choke plate on the
shaft is missing. Sarge, would you pull
the engine and strip it down looking for
the screw or not?
Private DC, it looks to me like you
have two problems, not just one.
The first problem I will address is
your rusting problem. Those ancient
Honda fuel tanks had a seam along
each bottom edge. Any moisture
would collect there and eventually
rust through. I recommend that each
summer you remove your fuel tank
and completely drain it. Set it in the
sun for a day to completely dry it out,
then reinstall. Then add a snowmobile
universal fuel filter with a nylon filter
element that stops water to your fuel
line. With that problem solved, let’s
now turn to your missing screw. If your
Zooter runs okay, then I will assume
the screw passed harmlessly through
the engine and out the exhaust. If it
got caught between the valve and
seat, you would not be able to develop
enough compression pressure to
start. The most damage that might
have happened and still be able to run
would be the screw being compressed
into either the head or piston. This
would leave a small impression of the
screw in the aluminum, but at the low-compression ratio that your Zooter
produces— 7.8:1—there is so much
clearance between the piston and the
head at TDC (top dead center) that
most likely little damage was done.
Twenty-five situps for this valuable
information, Private DC. Dismissed! o