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By Sarge McCoy
HOW MANY BATTERIES DO I NEED IN
I have a 2008 Grizzly 700. I have
already bought one new battery this
year. The other day I went out and it
wouldn’t start again. I can jump-start it
and it runs fine. I can ride it for a while,
and it seems to charge, because if I
turn it off and try to start it back up, it
will start. I only went a few days without
riding the bike. Could it be the charging
unit on the bike?
Private Sand Trap, you need to
obtain either a VOM (Volt-ohm meter)
or an amp meter and install it on your
battery’s positive terminal backwards,
so it reads a power draw. Something
is draining your battery. Start
disconnecting things until the meter
reads 0 draw. That will be your problem
there! Fifty sit-ups, Boot! Dismissed!
BRUSH GUARD HITTING REAR TIRES
I recently purchased a 2014 Polaris
Ranger 900 EPS Titanium Matte
Metallic LE. I’ve owned it for about a
month and a half and have just over 30
hours on my machine. I installed Polaris
brush guards front and rear. The front
brush guard provides lots of protection
and looks good too. The rear brush
guard is a different story. The first load I
dumped and pulled away from with the
bed up, I heard all this noise. It was the
rear brush guard hitting my tires. How
could Polaris not design for this? Has
anyone else had this problem?
Eagle Creek, Oregon
Private Tinfoil, did you or
your dealer install the rear
brush guard? For starters,
the instructions have room for
improvement. Follow these
instructions, Boot, and see if
you now have the nominal 3/4-
inch clearance with factory tires.
1. Loosely attach the bumper
to the frame mounts.
2. Tighten the rear of the
brush-guard mount to the bed
frame (located under the bed
3. Tighten the front of the
brush-guard mount to the bed
frame (located near the bed-hinge bolts).
But note, Boot, that any tires
that are taller than stock, even with the
rear brush guard properly installed, will
most likely scrub the guard with the
bed raised. Your choices are to remove
the rear brush guard, raise the bed and
lower it without moving, or try another
brand of rear brush guard. It will also
be your choice whether you show up
for the 10-mile run at zero-dark thirty!
DOING BURNOUTS WITH MY
I own a 1994 Polaris 400L. The
problem I have is the starter switch
keeps going out. The wiring is clean
and I purchased a new battery. The
wiring connections are not corroded.
With a new switch installed, it will last
for five to seven starts, then it burns
out and I have to pull start it until I can
replace the switch.
Private Ding Dong, just what is a
“starter switch”? Starter solenoid, or the
key switch that activates the starter?
If it is the key switch, that switch was
never designed to carry the amps
an electric starter draws. If it is your
starter solenoid, it is designed to carry
the amp draw; however, we need to
determine why yours is failing. What is
the failure mode, Boot? Turn the key
and the solenoid doesn’t click? Is it
getting power? Is your starter motor
drawing too much power and burning
out the copper contacts inside the
solenoid? An automotive starter motor
rebuild shop should be able to tell you
if it is drawing too much. You can also
install a solenoid from another piece
of equipment. They all work the same
and are wired pretty much the same.
Switch power or ground to complete
the circuit to connect the battery to the
starter motor via a magnetic plunger
with contacts on the end. Twenty-five
sit-ups, Boot, for every “starter switch”
you burned up! Dismissed!
WHY IS A “BROWN OUT” BROWN?
I have an ’09 Teryx, and I am having
some issues. First off, I installed a
voltage gauge to watch my voltage,
and running during the day it is around
14 volts. But at night, with the HIDs
on, it drops to 12. 5 volts, and if the fan
comes on it drops to 11 volts. It just
started this last weekend, and when it
drops that low it wants to die. I have a
red-top Optima battery installed. I am
thinking it is a stator problem, and my
Teryx is still under warranty.
Fort Wayne, Indiana
Boot, your problem is not the battery.
Your problem is output! Not enough
power being produced by your factory
alternator. Kawasaki rates the stock
alternator output at 325 watts, but
anybody that I have talked to rates
the output closer to 300 watts. Your
Zooter requires about 225 watts to just
operate, so that leaves you with less
than 100 watts for any accessories.
Turn everything on, let the revs drop
and your ignition will start to fail at 11
volts. Just installing a larger alternator
won’t help, because the wiring harness
is too light to handle a boost in power.
A special sub-harness for charging is
needed. The people at ElectroSport
Industries ( 305-4200) have
solved this problem with their 450-watt
alternator conversion: www.electrosport
replacement high-output alternator
sends the charge current through
heavy-gauge wires, bypassing the
factory wiring and avoiding the risk
of fire. Ninety percent of the total
output, or 400 watts, is available at
3000 rpm, with 450 watts available at
5000 rpm. You should be able to hold
+ 13 volts with this alternator setup
and your stated load, Boot! Since you
are good at using electricity, Boot, all
the companies’ light bulbs need to
be polished. Get your ladder, Boot!