Now set the “installed gap.” Installed gap is the separation in the clutch pack
created by the “pressure plate adjuster.” This gap is what allows the clutch to
spin freely until the desired rpm when it engages. Insert the long end of a 5mm
hex key into one of the two hex holes in the pressure-plate adjuster. By hand,
gently thread the pressure plate adjuster inward until it comes to a stop against
the center clutch nut. You need to spin the center adjuster assembly until you
find the distinguishable change in turning effort. It make take a couple tries;
you can easily back it off a bit and run it back in again. Take note of the index
mark. In our case, it was one tick before the 3.
Check your clutch lever to make sure it has free play. If the lever is tight against
the perch, then you need to adjust a few turns of slack into the cable and then
recheck your starting point. If there is not enough adjustment at the perch,
you may need to adjust using the in-line cable adjuster. With proper free play
at the lever, insert the short end of a 5mm hex key into the pressure plate
adjuster and turn it clockwise one full turn, plus two tick marks past the starting
point. It now indexes at one mark past 3.
With the installed gap set, use a 4mm hex key to tighten the two locking-set
screws into the pressure adjuster plate to lock it in place. Tighten the two
screws evenly in three to four steps. The tops of the setscrews should sit flush or
slightly below the top of the adjuster when torqued correctly ( 40 foot-pounds).
Readjust the lever free play again to OEM spec—about a nickel’s width or
5mm between the lever and perch. Ten to 20mm of movement should be felt
at the outside of the lever.
The Core EXP clutch cover is designed deeper to clear all the EXP’s moving
parts. To provide proper clearance between the brake pedal and the cover,
Rekluse supplies a washer/spacer to install between the brake pedal and the
frame. Our 2005 model did not need this spacer; the pedal cleared without
it. A length of O-ring cord is supplied to replace the stock cover O-ring. Place
a dab of grease into the groove in four spots to hold the O-ring cord in place.
Trim the cord so that it meets up with itself at the 12 o’clock position. Install
the clutch cover.
Reinstall the clutch cover bolts, and then reinstall the brake pedal and return
spring. You are now ready to check the “free play gain.” With the bike started,
in neutral and at idle, apply enough finger pressure to take up the initial free
play (slack). While continuing to apply light pressure, rev the engine to at least
5000 rpm. The lever should move 3mm or 1/8-inch under your finger pressure
as you rev the engine and the auto clutch engages.
Side note: On TRX kick-start models, you will have to do some work to
provide clearance for the kick-starter. Determine where the kick-starter will
hit the cover, mark it and then remove the aluminum material. This can be
done with a hand file or very carefully with a grinder. Typically, all it takes is
removing the little casting lip inside the kick-starter. Do not over do this and
damage the structural integrity of your kick-starter. It is probably best done
with a hand file.
1.) Warm up the bike for 2–3 minutes. With the bike in neutral
and your hand off the clutch lever, rev the engine 10 times,
letting it return to idle between each blip of the throttle.
2.) With the engine running and clutch pulled in, click the bike
into gear. Slowly release the clutch lever. The bike should stay
in place, with perhaps a slight amount of forward creep.
3.) With the bike idling in gear, perform roll-on starts in first to
about 5000 rpm. Repeat 5 times. Then, repeat the process
with 5 second-gear roll-on starts.
4.) Your EXP is now broken in. Recheck free play again,
make any final adjustments and you’re ready to ride. ❏